Wickliffe chef’s work wins accolades

by Cindy A. Abole Public Relations

To watch Wickliffe House executive chef Curtis Labitue, cooking must be an easy job. But his soft voice, shy smile and skillful confidence belie the years of training and numerous cooking awards he has received since coming to Charleston in the late 1980s.

Sauteed shrimp with lemon butter and chives presents a dramatic look in the kitchen as Chef Curtis and his staff prepares lunch entrees for diners at MUSC’s Wickliffe House.

Chef Curtis garnishes his final ingredients to a lunch dish prepared at the Wickliffe House kitchen. He recently won cooking honors at the Wild Game Gourmet Cooking contest and Lowcountry Oyster Festival.

Labitue once again was recognized for his culinary talents during Market Square’s Wild Game Gourmet Cooking Contest and January’s Lowcountry Oyster Festival at Boone Hall Plantation.

“I’ve been fortunate in what I’ve done,” said Labitue, originally from Detroit, Mich. “I enjoy working with food and food preparation. The best part of being a chef is meeting others, networking and learning. You put forth an idea to see what you’re doing and then you meet 20 guys and you have 20 new ideas.”

The chef moved to the area as a student associated with an independent European cooking program learning under German Chef Heinz Graphe Polk. During the 1970s, Polk was associated with prominent Charleston eateries, the Fish Market and Cotton Exchange Restaurant. Labitue joined Marriott, which provides food service to MUSC, in 1991. His previous work and experience in fine dining and catering was a good match for the charming atmosphere of the Wickliffe House. There, he heads a staff of three cooking personnel and two wait staff.

Labitue seems comfortable in his unique surroundings, “The way I’ve been trained, the more people in the kitchen, the less you get to learn.” He credits his one-on-one training to Chef Polk. “That’s something you don’t get in culinary school.”

Labitue recently placed first and second in two specialty categories in the Second Annual Wild Game Cooking Contest associated with the Southeastern Wildlife Expo. He first got involved in last year’s contest on the day of the competition. He remembers running quickly back to his kitchen to whip up a recipe and hurriedly entered his dish. Unfortunately, he didn’t place, but vowed to participate again. This year, he won first place in the fur category for his pan-seared rabbit loin. He also placed second for his Chinese lacquered duck in the competition’s feather category.

Labitue hopes to continue working in what he loves the best: cooking. “The thing I like about competitions is that its easy to bring yourself up to another level because you have to actually practice and get ready for the event,” Labitue said. “You learn a lot about yourself.”

Earlier this year, Labitue took the first place award at the Lowcountry Oyster Festival’s Cooking Contest, sponsored by the Greater Charleston Restaurant Association. He won with his grilled caribbean jerked oysters wrapped in bacon entree. His dish scored the highest in creativity, originality and presentation. He previously won first place in the beef category of the American Culinary Food Competition.

“I like to work with a recipe someone can take home and make,” said Labitue. “I want to create recipes where the ingredients are readily available. Labitue admits that sometimes his best recipe ideas come at the last minute. “I work better when I know I have to perform. It works better that way.”

As executive chef at the Wickliffe House, Labitue and his cooking staff prepare lunch Monday through Friday, and support other catered events. The facility can seat up to 75 people during lunch. “I try to keep the menus nutritional and healthy.” Labitue credits Joanne Milkereit, registered dietitian in dietetic services, for educating him in heart healthy cooking. “When she showed me how high calorie food can be adjusted to low calorie and still taste good, that opened up a whole new world and opportunity for me because it advanced my repertoire of cooking and recipes,” Labitue said.

Managed by Sarah Youngblood, the Wickliffe House serves the MUSC community. The house, which first opened in 1977, was named for Miss Margaret Wickliffe and is MUSC’s Faculty/Alumni Club. It can accommodate up to 200 people during special receptions, dinners, meetings, and class reunions.

For catered events, Labitue strives to do his best work. “Clients know what they want when it comes to food, and usually they are open to different ideas. I like to put in the extra mile as a chef. I love to give more than they expect whenever possible, whether it’s a beautiful ice sculpture, colorful cheese display or shrimp boat.”

The Wickliffe House, located at 178 Ashley Avenue, opens for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., Monday through Friday. A lunch buffet is featured on Tuesdays and Thursdays, with reservations recommended. Special events are scheduled on an individual basis.

For more information, contact Youngblood at 723-2587.

1st Place, Fur Category, 1998 Wild Game Gourmet Cooking Contest

Pan Seared Rabbit Loin with Honey Mustard and Thyme Glaze

2 Rabbit Loins; 2 tsp. Thyme;1 tsp. Salt ;1 tbsp. Dijon Mustard; 1 tsp. Pepper; 1 tbsp. Honey; 1 tsp. Granulated Garlic; 1/4 tsp. Lemon Juice; 1 tbsp. Olive Oil

Method: Season rabbit loins with salt, pepper and granulated garlic. Heat olive oil in saute pan. Add rabbit loins to hot oil. Sear on each side 1-2 minutes. Place rabbit loins on a plate. Add thyme, cook for three seconds. Add mustard, honey and lemon juice. Mix well. Add rabbit loins. Serve when heated. Servings: 1

2nd Place, Feather Category

Chinese Lacquered Duck

1- 5 lb. Duck; 1 oz. (Sliced) Fresh ginger; 2 tbsp. Honey; 2 tbsp. Coriander; 2 tbsp. Fennel Seed; 2 tbsp. Salt; 2 tbsp. Szechuan Sauce; 1 tbsp, Pepper; 1 tbsp. Crushed Garlic

Method: Dry duck inside and outside with a towel. Season with salt and pepper. Dry in the refrigerator for three days. Combine remaining ingredients. Leave in the refrigerator for three days, then strain. Brush on duck. Cook in a 375 degree oven for 1-1/2 hours. Allow to rest for 20-30 minutes. Debone duck. Slice breast for presentation. Serves one half duck per person.

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